This and That

Here are somethings that I neglected to put in earlier posts, things that I learned on this trip and general info.

The next time I rent a car I will make sure to take a credit card that has $2,000 available on it. While I was at EuropCar in Metz I read a notice at the counter. I couldn't read all of it, but did notice a figure of 1,330 Euros, so I think that is the standard deposit for Europeans.
I don't consider it a scam, but after I landed at Charles de Gaulle airport and was headed out to the taxi stand a man approached me and asked if I needed a cab. My first thought was that a "real" cabbie would be in his cab waiting for a fare. I have run into this once before and it is for a ride in a limousine. A treat, but one I can do without. I'd rather spend my money on other things. Besides my cab was a Mercedes!

One advantage of having bathroom attendants is that the bathrooms are clean and fully stocked. The only time I ran into a bathroom without any toilet paper was the one at Sainte Chapelle (no attendant) I had a little package of kleenex in my purse, just in case.

If you ask for bottled water at a restaurant you will pay dearly for it. Instead ask for tap water, it is perfectly safe (and good) and free. Instead of buying a new bottle of water every day I would just refill my bottle from the bathroom sink. Soft drinks are expensive too (they are mainly considered a drink for children), I saw prices from 2.30 to 3.50 Euros ($3.25 to $5.00). Wine or coffee will be less. I usually just ask for the house wine, and it has always been very good.

One thing I noticed is that people are much more serious about recycling. When we were in Antwerp (or was it Brugges?) I noticed all the shops hauling their boxes out to the street. The following day was paper pick-up day, and all the shops seemed to be complying. They also seem much more energy efficient, as I found out at Gina's. People turn the lights out when they are not in a room.

People speak more softly in public, so you aren't going to hear more information than you ever wanted to know from the table across the restaurant.

There was good and bad with going on this trip by myself. Staying with Gina and Monique and meeting Pat in Paris it was a good combination of both being alone and being with someone. I don't regret going alone, but sometimes I thought it would have been nice to have someone to share the trip with. Since I knew I was going to stay with Gina and Monique I was hesitant to dump another person them. But they are both so gracious they would not have minded. On the upside, I always agreed with myself as to what I was going to do each day! It did take a little while to become comfortable with eating alone and I think I would have been a bit more adventurous if I'd been with someone. The picnicking worked out OK, although it would have been better if any of the places I stayed had had a small refrigerator in the room. To me the best travel companions are those that are also independent and don't feel we have to be joined at the hip. If one of us wants to go off on their own one day, that is fine.

Yes the French, in particular, are crazy about their dogs taking them everywhere. I saw dogs at Mont Saint Michel..........and not just on the lower levels, but w-a-a-a-y up there.

Paris has a reputation of being dirty, but I did not see this. During a garbage strike I can see how it would be. But there are trash receptacles all along the street. I think they have made a real effort to clean up the city. The only thing I saw was two doggie calling cards that their owners failed to pick up. Considering how many dogs I saw being walked I think that is pretty good.

Twice in Paris when I was at a restaurant a person sitting nearby got up and went to the toilet (to them a "bathroom" is where you take a bath) and left their stuff at the table. I know that I would not do that here. Not only would I not leave my purse, but I would worry that an overzealous waiter might clear off my table! I have learned a little more about the Basilica of the Holy Blood in Bruges. The legend is that after the Crucifixion, Joseph of Arimathea wiped blood from the body of Christ and preserved the cloth. The first historical record to mention the Holy Blood in Bruges dates from 1256. The real story seems to be that it came from Constantinople, which had an extensive collection of relics including one of the Holy Blood. Constantinople was sacked by the Crusader army of Count of Flanders Baldwin IX in 1204, during the Fourth Crusade. Baldwin IX probably sent the Holy Blood, looted from the Byzantines, to Bruges shortly thereafter. The manner in which the rock-crystal vial is cut also suggests an origin in Constantinople.

Budget wise I did pretty well. In retrospect I probably could have spent a little more........

Knowing that gas in Europe is much higher than here, I budgeted $350 for gas, but spent just about half that much. A pleasant surprise.

Outside of Paris, when I wasn't staying with friends, I budgeted $125 per day for food and lodging. In Paris I budgeted $200. This is only food and hotel, not any entrance fees, taxis, tolls, souvenirs, etc. Most days I met, or beat, this goal.

Someone had told me that it would be hard to find a room for less than $300-400 per night. Maybe if you stay in a large hotel chain, but I always prefer B&Bs and small hotels. In Europe B&Bs are less expensive than hotels--unless you go for the really posh ones.

The B&B in Dijon cost 65 Euros per night. I figured one Euro was between $1.40 and $1.45, so figuring by the higher number that came to $94.25. At Mont Saint Michel it was 55 Euros per night---$79.75. Both places included breakfast. At Mont Saint Michel they cut me a little break since I was a single. The rate for two people would have been 70 Euros ($101.50). In Paris I paid 90 ($130.50) for the room (no single break there) and 12 E ($17.40) for breakfast for a total of $147.90.

Meals were generally around 12-15 Euros. ($17.25-21.50). However, tipping is not expected. I have been told that waitstaff are paid a decent wage so they do not have to depend on tips. If service is good you might round up...say if your bill was 14.30 Euros you could leave 15.

Oh, in Europe they use a comma when we use a dot and a dot when we use a comma. So that would be 14,30.

How could I forget to mention the sex shop in Antwerp? I have included one photo on the slideshow, but there is another one--with more detail--that I have in my camera if anyone wants to see it. The city did not come to a halt because this shop is in existence.

What would I have done differently. I would have triple checked with Kemwel about the car. That was a waste of 5 hours.

I would have done a little more shopping. I would have spent an extra day in Normandy so I could have gone to the D-Day beaches and spent more time with Osu. Maybe I would have splurged a little more on meals. I had wonderful meals-and some of the best were in Belgium-but I would have splurged a little more. I think it would have been easier if I'd been traveling with someone. That is something I need to work on. I would have taken more photos, and stopped driving when I saw a really good shot. I would have gone to a French beauty shop to see how I came out---and/or had a massage, or mani/pedi or some other girlie treat. One of my travel "rules" that I didn't follow so well on this trip is to take a "break day" once every week or 10 days. A nice slow paced day (a good day for that girlie treat)

I am already thinking about where I want to go on my next trip.

French Rudeness

OK, let me say right off the bat that you will never convince me that the French are rude. Honestly I did not encounter one instance of rudeness. I swear.

I think part of this reputation is because the French are much more formal than Americans. There is a certain protocol and courtesy that must be followed. You would never walk up to someone and ask, "Hey, where's the Eiffel Tower?". You say " Excuse me, can you help me please?" then you ask directions, or whatever you need. You always greet the people in a store when you enter and say goodbye when you leave.

I think if we don't follow this etiquette they see us as rude and are frosty back. I admit that one (at least) one occassion I was a rude American. I'd had a great converstion with the guy at The San Francisco Book Store and had left. When I left there was no one else in the store. I got about half way down the block and thought he might know where an Internet cafe was. So I went back and as I walked in the door started asking my question. There was a woman at the checkout counter and I had obviously interupted them. There was a man about my age who seemed concerned that something was wrong (why else would I barge in like that??) and asked if something was wrong.........or maybe he was making a point...........

I lost count of how many people I asked for directions (I really should have taken a photo of each of them!) and no matter what their English skill, if any, they were unfailingly polite. Often they drew maps for me.

I would hope that if a French person who spoke little English went into a store or stopped people on the street here to ask directions they would be treated as well. I have a mental picture of this person walking into a Wal-Mart.........

I think the general attitude in France (and Europe) is "the good of the many outweighs the good of the one" but too often here I think there is the opposite attitude.

Last Day in Paris

I woke up sad that it would be my last day in Paris. To be honest, the first time I visited Paris (and France) in 1999, I did not expect to like it. But, to my surprise, I felt like I had "come home". I thought one factor might be because I didn't have high expectations. But, this is my third trip to Paris and that feeling has not changed.

When I went to Ireland in 2000 I had heard so much about it and just expected it to be the end- all-be all. It was OK, it wasn't bad and I did have have a good time. But I just didn't get what all the fuss was about. Maybe on that trip my expectations were too high. I would like to go back someday and give it another shot. I will say that driving in Ireland was an experience. But, that is another story.

First thing on my list was to go to Saint Chapelle. It is a cathedral and the stained glass is just unbelievable. I have made stained glass pieces and I know how much work goes into a 2 foot square piece. I have tried to find out how many artisans worked on the glass but so far haven't found anything. The cathedral was built in five years, which seems amazing (Notre Dame took over 200 years). It was built to supposedly house the Crown of Thorns. While the lower chapel is nice with some lovely artwork and decor the real jewel is up a circular stone staircase to the upper chapel. There are 15 towering stained glass windows below a beautifully painted domed ceiling. The windows tell the Biblical story of man--from Creation to redemption through Christ; Genesis, Exodus, Numbers, Deuteronomy, Judges, Isaiah, the Tree of Jesse, Saint John the Baptist, Daniel, Ezekiel, Jeremiah, Tobias, Judith and Job, Esther, the Book of Kings, and the History of the Relics. The first window to your left as you enter begins the story and it continues around the room. At the back of the chapel is another window, it is large and round and tells the story of Judgement Day.

After I left Sainte Chapelle I wandered through a nearby flower market. Then I headed for the Orangerie Museum, for a final Impressionist fix. For the first day since I have been in Paris it is cloudy and looks like it will rain. Did I bring my umbrella? No, it was safe and dry in my hotel room. Oh well, I knew I wouldn't melt...... I walked along the right bank of the Seine this time. When I got to the Louvre I crossed the street and had to run to keep from getting flattened by a l-o-o-o-o-ng stretch limo that was, I am sure, carrying it's occupants to some terribly important meeting.

One note about a scam. Just that morning I had looked at Rick Steves' Paris book and it mentioned that while Paris is a very safe city, of course there are scams and pickpockets. One of the latest scams it mentioned is the "found ring" scam, where a person picks up a ring lying on the ground and asks if you dropped it. When you say no, they look at the ring and, lo and behold, there is a jewelers mark on the ring proving it is pure gold. The person then offers to sell it to you at a "good price". Well, after I went under the arches toward the Louvre guess what happened, a woman "found" a ring on the ground. It was a text book example of what Rick Steves had warned about. I just said it wasn't mine and kept walking. I looked back a couple of minutes later and didn't see the woman....guess she'd gone on to greener pastures. Later, I thought I should have said "Yes, that is my ring" to see what she would have done.

I didn't go to the Louvre this time, but turned left and walked through the Tuileries Gardens. This park is much more formal that Luxembourg Gardens, with statues lining the gravel walkways, pools, a precise layout and symmetrical shrubbery. At one end is the Louvre and at the other the Arc de Triomphe. By now the sky was very cloudy and it looked like it could rain at any second. I thought having lunch at one of the outdoor restaurants with umbrella covered tables nestled under the trees. But considering my family's history of having had a few brushes with lightening, I decided that might not be the best place for me to be during a storm. I decided to go on to the Orangerie Museum and eat there. Before I got there it started raining, so I tried to walk under the trees. Faced with getting wet or getting toasted by a stray bolt of lightening I went for staying dry. There was a long line waiting to get into the museum, due to the fact that they were only letting a few people in at a time. I managed to stay under trees most of the time, and along with using a small street map as cover I managed to stay mostly dry. There was an entrepreuner going up and down the line selling umbrellas. When we entered the museum they provided long, thin plastic bags for the people who had wet umbrellas. Unfortnately I learned that the Orangerie does not have a restaurant. So much for that idea. The main reason I wanted to go to this museum was for the Monets. The highlight (to me) of the museum are two large oval shaped rooms and each one has four Monet paintings of the water lillies at his house at Giverny. Each painting reflects a different time of the day. They are not sequential, going from one time period smoothly to the next. It is amazing to see the differences in the same scene at different times of the day. The paintings are quite large, at least six feet tall (I was judging this on my height) and I'd say at least 35 or 40 feet long. They were painted specifically for these two rooms and Monet was going blind (due to cataracts) when he painted them. I find his work amazing. Looked at up close a part of the painting just looks like random blobs of paint. But viewed from a distance it all blends into a beautiful scene.

After I left the museum I did stop at one of the outdoor restaurants for lunch. It was definitely cooler and I had a wonderful cup of hot chocolate to chase away the chill

I started walking back to the hotel. I really wanted to go to Sacre Coeur, but have to admit my feet over-ruled me. I resented my feet for this...but they didn't care! When a group of us went to Italy we talked about the "death marches" the tour guide led us on---but I think I walked more on this trip. On that trip to Italy one of the women would soak her feet at night in the bidet. If there had been a bidet in my bathroom I would have done the same thing. I longed for a pedicure and/or foot massage. I was so jealous when Monique told me that a woman comes to her house to give her a pedicure.

Sacre Coeur is a Catholic church high on Montmarte Hill which is the highest point in Paris. It is gleaming white, even with the passage of time and the assault of pollution. This is due to the stone it is made from which secretes calcite when it rains which acts like bleach. Just thinking about it being at the top of a hill was enough for my feet. Oh well, next time..........

On the way back to the hotel I turned the other way off the street to my hotel and went a different way and found a fantastic patisserie. Although I don't know if it is possible to find a bad patisserie in Paris. If someone would like to fund it I would be willing do exhaustive research on this topic........... I felt like I needed a pick me up (any excuse!) and went inside. The shop was jammed with people buying the most delicious looking pastries---everything was a work of art. I settled on a chocolate eclair (along with lasagna few things say comfort to me like chocolate!). Some of the offerings were so beautiful I would have had a hard time eating them...although I would have managed. I went back to the hotel, put my feet up and had my treat.

After a while I felt refreshed and headed out again. For my final dinner in Paris I ate at a restaurant around the corner. The waiter was very friendly and funny. I noticed him talking and joking with a couple of women who were obviously regulars. I could picture myself being a regular at this restaurant. I sat there, lingering over my glass of wine and enjoying the ever changing street scene, savoring my last night in Paris. I have to admit that having dessert was overkill after the eclair.......

I enjoyed a last stroll through the streets and then went back to the hotel to pack. This was when I discovered that I had left the box of chocolate in the rental car.

I knew that half way through the flight I would feel differently, but at the moment I was looking forward to sitting down--and not walking!--the next day.

Sunday----

After breakfast I went back to the room to finish up the odds and ends of packing. I paid the bill and the front desk called a cab. It was there within a couple of minutes and off we went. The cab driver tried to talk to me, but he didn't really speak English and I couldn't hold up my end of the conversation in French, so we settled into silence after a few minutes. Luckily since it was early Sunday morning and most people were sleeping in there wasn't much traffic and we made it to the airport in about 30 minutes. As I got out of the cab I noticed that a policeman approached the driver. I don't know if he parked where he shouldn't have or what was wrong. I watched from inside for a while and saw another policeman joining the first and the cab driver giving them his registration. Who knows......one of those unsolved mysteries of life. I finally decided that I needed to get in line.

Charles de Gaulle airport seems to be a manageable size---at least the terminal I was in (#2) seemed much more compact than DFW. No endless walking from one point to another,, I'd noticed that when I arrived too. I did get patted down at security--cheap thrill of the day. There weren't many shops in the terminal, but enough for me to get what I needed. Had an uneventful and smooth flight home. Once again I lucked out and the middle seat was empty. The only glitch is that something was wrong with the entertainment system. Every five minutes the movie was interrupted by an announcement on how to stow baggage in the overhead bins. The flight attendants tried to reboot the system, but no luck. So we saw that announcement about 50 times.